The #1 mistake I see in retirement plans: withdrawing from the wrong accounts at the wrong time. It costs people $200K+ in unnecessary taxes. I'll model your specific numbers and show you what to change.
Let's look at your numbersStart with a clear answer, or go straight to a full optimization.
A straight answer: can you retire, and how much are you leaving on the table?
The full tax-optimized plan, built around your accounts, your timeline, and your goals.
Punch in your numbers for a rough projection. Your real plan accounts for much more.
Every big life decision moves your ending balance. Here's what that looks like in real numbers.
What does retiring at 50 instead of 55 actually cost you? You'll see the exact dollar tradeoff.
Ending balance drops ~$340KIf you retire before 65, healthcare is expensive. But manage your MAGI right, and ACA subsidies can save you $15K+ per year.
Ending balance increases ~$300KThat $800K in home equity sitting idle? Selling and investing it can add years to your retirement runway.
Ending balance increases ~$300KPay 22% tax now, or 24%+ later when RMDs force your hand at 73. The math on converting early is often worth $300K–$500K.
Ending balance increases ~$500KWe'll spend 20 minutes on your situation and I'll tell you honestly whether a Discovery or Full Plan makes sense. If neither does, I'll say so.
I spent 20 years as a software and data engineer. When I started planning my own early retirement, I did what engineers do — I built a spreadsheet. Then the spreadsheet got complicated: tax brackets, Roth conversion windows, ACA subsidy cliffs, withdrawal sequencing across five account types. I kept adding to it because no existing tool modeled all of this together.
That spreadsheet became Lumifin. I built it to answer my own question — "can I actually retire?" — and now I use it to answer that question for other people. If you're trying to figure out when you can stop working, or what happens financially if you make a big life change, that's exactly what this is for.